Mounting Kitchen Wall Cabinets: Why Upper Cabinets Fall and How to Hang Them Safely
When an upper kitchen cabinet falls, the cabinet itself is rarely to blame; the wall type, anchors and hangers usually are. Learn the warning signs and the principles of safe installation.
·3 min readkitchen cabinetscabinet installationwall cabinetssafetykitchen cabinet hardware
An upper cabinet full of dishes is a load hanging from the wall at just a few points
In recent months, Turkish and German newspapers have published several reports of kitchen cabinets falling and of disputes between owners and installers over who is responsible. German searches are also full of questions such as how much weight a wall cabinet can hold and how high upper cabinets should hang. All of this points to a problem that is common in Iranian kitchens too: mounting kitchen wall cabinets looks simple from the outside, but mistakes can stay hidden for years.
Why do upper cabinets usually fall?
In most cases the cabinet carcass is fine and the weakness lies in how it is fixed to the wall. The common causes are:
Not knowing the wall type: brick and cement block, concrete, lightweight block and plasterboard each need their own anchors and screws. A standard plug in lightweight block or plasterboard gradually loosens.
Screws straight through a thin back: if the cabinet is held only by a few screws through a thin back panel, the weight of the dishes slowly pulls the panel over the screw heads.
More load than designed: a cabinet built for glasses and spices gets filled with heavy china and ceramics, and the shelves and joints are overloaded.
Water leaks or steam: a leaking pipe behind the wall or constant steam from the hood and kettle softens the MDF and particleboard around the screw points.
A wall cabinet is only as strong as its weakest anchor, not as thick as its carcass.
Principles of safe wall cabinet installation
The reliable method in professional workshops is to hang the cabinet on a steel hanging rail or on adjustable cabinet hangers. The rail is screwed to the wall with suitable anchors at adequate spacing, and hangers fitted inside the top corners of the carcass hold the cabinet on the rail. These hangers also let the installer adjust level and wall distance with a screwdriver after mounting.
Hanging rail and adjustable hanger: the load is spread along the wall, not on a few screws
Identify the wall material before drilling, and for plasterboard install timber or metal backing behind it in advance.
Know where the water pipes and electrical cables run behind the wall so the drill does not hit them.
Screw neighbouring cabinets to each other through their sides so they act as one unit.
Set the height of the upper cabinets and their distance from the worktop to suit the users; reference figures are in standard kitchen cabinet dimensions.
Warning signs: when to call the installer
If the top of the cabinet has pulled away from the wall, the doors no longer close in line, the cabinet floor is sagging, or you hear a knocking from the fixing points when you close a door, empty the cabinet and have the fixing checked. These signs usually appear before a fall, and ignoring them is the most common mistake. We cover other planning errors in common kitchen cabinet ordering mistakes.
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